FACTORS INFLUENCING ESTEEM
The factors influencing the esteem in which gems are held are few in number but extremely important because they so directly affect value. These are attractiveness, durability, rarity, fashion, and size. They are not fixed in scope by any means and the predominance of one factor may compensate for shortcomings in another.
ATTRACTIVENESS
The fascination felt for gems is mainly a visual appreciation of their beauty. There is little doubt that beauty is the most important quality that any gem can have, for without it no gem or other ornamental gem-stone object will be highly prized, regardless of what else it has to recom¬mend it. Beauty lies mainly in vivid coloration, as in the splendid red of the ruby or the glowing green of the emerald; it can also be in outline or shape, as in the symmetry of a well-cut faceted gem or the graceful lines of a tasteful carving; or it can exist in the special optical effects which the skilled lapidary is capable of developing in such gemstones as star sapphires, catseyes, or moonstones. Brilliance in a faceted gem is of course also highly important, especially if the sparkling reflections are combined with flashes of color in highly dispersive gems. All of these, and others too numerous to mention, influence the attraction we feel for gems.
COLOR
The importance of color cannot be overemphasized. It is one of the earliest impressions registered upon our senses when we fix our attention upon any object. Studies of human response to colors show that per¬ception of hue is best in the central part of the spectrum and decreases toward either end. Thus, yellow-green, yellow, and yellow-orange will appear brighter as a rule than the hues which range from yellow-green to violet, and from yellow-orange to red. Further, as colors are observed in the decreased light of evening, those at the extremes of the spectrum, namely red and violet, seem to become darker while those near the center tend to retain their visibility. In terms of colored gems, this means that dark red, blue, or violet gems are less likely to “hold” their hues in evening illumination than yellow, orange, or yellow-green gems. For the person contemplating buying expensive colored gem jewelry meant to be worn mainly at evening functions, it would certainly be wise to “test” the jewelry under the expected lighting conditions rather than under those so carefully provided in the jewelry store. Grave disappoint¬ments may be avoided.
An interesting sidelight to modern studies of color perception is that hues toward the violet end of the spectrum, the so-called “cool” colors, tend to depress spirits, while those toward the other or “warm” end of the spectrum tend to excite. These human reactions to color have been imply demonstrated in workshop and office environments and may pos¬sibly play important roles in personal acceptance or rejection of certain colors in gems.
The preference of individuals for specific colors is well established, but not so well known is the relative attractiveness of colored gems in general. The most attractive colors appear to be those which are pure and rich in hue, such as red, green, blue, purple, orange, and yellow. Of these hues, the first three are most attractive, while purple and orange are slightly less so. There is a substantial drop of interest in yellow. Interest also rapidly wanes in all hues which become increasingly darker or lighter. The least interest is displayed in gemstones which are some shade of brown, particularly if they tend to be quite dark. Black and white gemstones are also unattractive as a rule, although they may be in vogue for brief periods as evidenced by the lavish use of jet in the Victorian era. Colorless gems are generally unattractive unless, as in the case of faceted diamonds, they display good brilliance, preferably with good dispersion or “fire” as an added feature.
The presence of color is important even in those gems which are offered primarily for their display of optical effects, e.g., the sheen in moonstone, die spangles of aventurine, or the bright lines of reflected light which appear in star and eye stones. Between two moonstones, for example, one displaying a bluish light and the other a silvery light, the blue one will be preferred to the silvery one by the majority of persons. This preference holds true in virtually all kinds of lapidary objects, whether they be faceted gems, cabochons, or carvings.